On December 12, Denim Tears released its first full in-house denim line following years of leaning on Levi’s as its main manufacturing partner. The first release represents a full-circle moment for the brand, which has built its universe around denim as a cultural artifact since its establishment.Founded by Tremaine Emory in 2019, the label had only dabbled in limited drops of in-house denim until now. A beloved pair of Levi’s is how the name “Denim Tears” came to Emory, and he’s still holding onto the pair of LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing) jeans he bought in 2010 — a piece he wore “until they were ripped to shreds.” “Needless to say, Levi’s is great, and we look forward to working with them in the future,” Emory shared with me on a call the day before launching.“People are often obsessed with Creative Directors, but we are nothing without the people we work with.”Cut, sewn, and washed in the USA, the brand debuted “Denim Tears Denim,” with a stripped-back, monochromatic campaign shot by Liam Macrae. The photos are fronted by close friends and team members, which was a conscious choice for Emory, who was quick to credit his team as he reflected on the development process.“The brand is just as much a testament to them as it is to me,” he stated, naming colleagues Bryce, Kenji, Monique, Angel, and more. “People are often obsessed with Creative Directors, but we are nothing without the people we work with,” he added.In two core fits (Straight and Baggy), Denim Tears offers a choice between hefty 14 oz denim and a lighter 13 oz Selvedge Denim, which is crafted in Japan using traditional shuttle looms. To complement the pants, Trucker Jackets are offered in matching fabrications, completing the look. And of course, each silhouette also comes in the brand’s signature cotton wreath print and two different washes.Beyond aesthetics, Emory is more concerned with “the people,” both in his team and in the supply chain, ensuring that environmental and social responsibility remain top of mind. Furthermore, now having full oversight over his denim line, the creative director is determined to continue driving discourse on the fabric’s complicated legacy.In a candid conversation, Emory expanded on the importance of acknowledging everyone involved in the process, designing denim with “emotion,” and advancing stories that have been buried in history “whether people want to hear them or not.”You launched Denim Tears in 2019. Why did you wait until now to launch a fully in-house denim line?Tremaine Emory: We have done seasonal in-house denim before—like the “Frog and Scorpion” collection that came out last year—but we have been working on this core program for a very long time. Needless to say, Levi’s is great, and we look forward to working with them in the future; we aren’t severing that relationship as a collaborator.However, with Levi’s, it is a partnership where we buy a certain amount of units, so we have to work very
A Dialogue on Denim With Tremaine Emory
