Michele’s Valentino SS26 Collection: A Dazzling Spectacle of Hope and Resistance
Italian fashion house Valentino has once again captured the attention of the fashion world with its latest Spring/Summer 2026 collection, titled “Fireflies.” Creative director Alessandro Michele has taken inspiration from Italian filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini’s metaphor of the firefly, using sequins and light fabrics to represent hope and resistance against darkness.
The collection challenges traditional fashion norms by blending masculine and feminine silhouettes and using unconventional materials to express an “embodied poetry.” Michele’s bold and eccentric aesthetic is evident in every piece, from bright colors and kitsch patterns to ornate trims.
The show opened with a long note from Michele, explaining the collection’s title and its deeper meaning. He references Pasolini’s metaphor of the firefly as a symbol of “the ability to resist the darkest night” and “survive the darkness of the ruling fascism.” This sentiment is translated into the clothes, with ornate blouses featuring sheer panels, cheerful prints, and shining sequins.
One standout piece is a flapper-style spaghetti strap dress covered in chrome sequins with firefly embroidery at the waist. Another is a completely sheer gown adorned with a golden sequin snake coiling around the skirt and bodice. Menswear codes are also subverted, with blazers featuring permanent fold marks and subtle hourglass shapes.
The collection also features structured austerity and organic fluidity, with a suit jacket covered in golden scales and orb-like shapes, and a mint long-sleeve shirt with a draped neckline reminiscent of Greek marble. The oxidized copper hue and monumental drapery evoke images of New York’s Lady Liberty, standing tall with her torch illuminating the dark.
The Valentino SS26 runway show was a dazzling spectacle of hope and resistance, showcasing Michele’s fierce and defiant expression through fashion. Check out the gallery above for a full look at the collection and stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest insights from Paris Fashion Week.
