brand a new wave of cool
Marni Confirms Departure of Creative Director Francesco Risso After 10 Years
On Wednesday, Marni dropped a major bombshell: Creative Director Francesco Risso is leaving the brand after a decade at the helm. While the OTB-owned label has yet to announce a replacement, rumors are swirling about the return of a female creative director.
Francesco Risso Exits Marni After 10 Years
In an official statement shared with Vogue, Marni confirmed on Wednesday morning that its Creative Director of 10 years, Francesco Risso, is stepping down from his role. Risso, who was appointed in 2016, has been the only Creative Director of the Italian label, aside from founder Consuelo Castiglioni who started the brand in 1994.
Renzo Rosso Shares Gratitude for Risso’s Contributions
“I will always be grateful to Renzo [Rosso] for believing in me, for giving me the front seat on a journey that became more than I could have imagined,” Rosso shared with Vogue. “Marni has been a studio, a stage, a dream. It carried color, instinct, care, and gave space for people to be themselves. It taught me how to build with feeling and how powerful true collaboration can be,” he continued.
Risso’s Impact on Marni
Risso’s tenure at Marni was marked by his craft-focused approach and his ability to take the brand’s signature use of color and texture to the next level. He also successfully connected with a younger audience, introducing the label to a new generation with his chunky knitwear, bohemian florals, and reworked sensibilities. Collaborations with designers like Dingyun Zhang, Carhartt WIP, and Erykah Badu further solidified Marni’s appeal to Gen Z and Millennials.
Changes at OTB Group
Risso’s departure is just one of several changes happening at OTB Group, which also owns Diesel, Jil Sander, and Maison Margiela. Last year, Glenn Martens left Y/Project and joined Maison Margiela as John Galliano’s replacement. In February, Lucie and Luke Meier left Jil Sander and were replaced by Simone Bellotti in March.
Speculation on a Female Creative Director
With Risso’s exit, there is speculation that Marni could bring back a female perspective to the brand. This could evoke nostalgia for Marni fans who have missed founder Consuelo Castiglioni’s distinct vision. Rumored candidates include Virginie Viard, who left Chanel last year, and Maria Grazia Chiuri, who recently left Dior. However, their backgrounds in traditional luxury and couture may not align with Marni’s youthful and edgy aesthetic.
Potential Candidates for the Role
One potential candidate for the role is Martine Rose, a young and independent designer known for her offbeat references, colorful palette, and whimsical design details. Her cult following could bring a new wave of cool to the Marni brand, as seen in her collaborations with Clarks on inflatable and candy-colored footwear designs. By choosing a director from outside the traditional luxury world, Marni could continue to develop its unique identity and appeal to a younger audience.
