Grammys in a custom Thom Browne suit.
Met Gala’s Superfine Exhibition Celebrates Black Dandyism and Fashion’s Impact on Identity
When Andrew Bolton, the curator-in-charge at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, approached Monica Miller, author of “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity,” to be the guest curator for their highly anticipated spring exhibition, it was a true honor for the scholar. In an interview with Hypebeast, Miller expressed her excitement, stating, “Very few academics get a second act on a book that they published a while ago, and this is more than just a second act. I’ve had the opportunity to translate my book from a piece of academic scholarship into an experience for visitors.”
“It was a wild surprise,” she humbly smiled, “and a real creative challenge.”
The exhibition, titled “Superfine,” will be unveiled at the Met Gala on Monday and open to the public on May 10. It delves into the history of Black dandyism and how fashion has played a crucial role in shaping Black identities from the 18th century to present day. Building on the themes explored in Miller’s 2009 book, the exhibition features a collection of costumes, photographs, fine art, and other historical artifacts. This show is particularly significant as it marks the first time the Costume Institute will address race, as well as gender, class, and sexuality, head-on. It is also the department’s first menswear-focused exhibition in over 20 years, following “Bravehearts: Men in Skirts” in 2003. Needless to say, the responsibility placed on Miller’s shoulders was immense.
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The original dandy, as defined by French poet, essayist, and critic Charles Baudelaire in the 18th century, was an “obsessive male dresser” who aspired to be “uninterruptedly sublime.” (Think of Beau Brummell, the British arbiter of men’s fashion who challenged aristocratic dress codes with his simple motto: “Don’t talk about your clothes, let your clothes do the talking.”) However, Black dandyism is a much more politically charged movement, one that has challenged societal norms, championed radical self-expression, and redefined Black identities through style for centuries. It encompasses everything from Frederick Douglass’ bold fashion choices and 1930s zoot suits to André Leon Talley’s dramatic kaftans and Virgil Abloh’s fusion of streetwear and formalwear. As playwright Jeremy O. Harris recently put it, “A dandy, at his or her core, is a rewriter of narratives – the narratives carved into a society’s understanding about the communities from which the dandy has emerged.”
According to Miller, the modern Black dandy is not confined by stereotypes or labels. He is Chadwick Boseman, donning a holy Versace cape at the 2018 Met Gala. They are Kai-Isaiah Jamal, the first Black trans model to walk for Louis Vuitton, wearing an Abloh-designed zoot suit in 2021. She is Doechii, winning Best Rap Album at this year’s Grammys in a custom Thom Browne suit. The contemporary Black dandy is a symbol of defiance, breaking barriers and challenging societal norms through their elevated fashion choices.
