Making its Debut: XS.SML, the Japanese Clothing Label by Hikaru Watanabe
Is Beauty Just Skin Deep? The Philosophy Behind XS.SML
Japanese clothing label XS.SML is set to make its highly anticipated debut this Spring/Summer 2025. Founded by veteran patternmaker Hikaru Watanabe, who has spent the last 10 years working for N. HOOLYWOOD, the brand is already generating buzz with its unique approach to fashion.
With a thought-provoking Instagram bio that asks, “Is beauty just a question of looks, or could there be more to it than meets the eye?”, XS.SML leaves an air of mystery surrounding its direction and philosophy. While the brand’s name may seem to simply refer to sizing, a closer look at Watanabe’s personal Instagram reveals his interest in Rem Koolhaas and Bruce Mau’s book S,M,L,XL – a massive documentation of works by Koolhaas’ Dutch firm for Metropolitan Architecture (O.M.A.). This could also be a source of inspiration for the label’s name.
In another Instagram post, XS.SML shared photos featuring four different clothing labels, each with a different letter omitted from the brand name. This hints at the brand’s use of one label to indicate both its name and the garment’s size.
The SS25 collection from XS.SML features a range of breezy and technical styles, including short-sleeve shirts, button-ups, wide-legged pants, shorts, and hooded windbreakers. The garments come in an earthy color palette, with khaki, army green, taupe, ocher, black, and charcoal gray. One noticeable design detail throughout the collection is the use of ruching, which creates a slightly draped and crinkled effect.
Get a sneak peek at some of the pieces from XS.SML’s SS25 collection in the gallery above. Stay tuned for release updates on the brand’s social media channels.
