Dries Van Noten: The Brand’s First Collection Without Its Namesake Designer
The fashion world was abuzz at Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday afternoon as Dries Van Noten, the brand, debuted its first collection without its namesake designer. Van Noten, the man, retired from fashion this past June after 38 successful years at the helm of his label, leaving behind a legacy of striking prints, rich textiles, provocative color palettes, and sophisticated shapes.
But fear not, fashion lovers, as the brand is now writing its next chapter. While no new creative director has been named just yet, the imprint’s in-house team has designed the Spring 2025 collection through the lens of Van Noten’s archives. And the result? A chaotic yet magical display of animal prints, electric colors, strong stripes, and illustrative graphics all colliding in singular looks.
The studio designers effectively honored Van Noten’s legacy, with many of his signature codes converging “along an optimistic path, extending from the earliest women’s collections through what lies ahead,” as the label’s show notes explained. From snakeskin trench coats paired with silky satin shirts and trousers to slim bomber jackets with ornamental skirts and reptilian clutches, the collection exuded true eclecticism.
The formal pieces were crisp and tailored, while the eveningwear was bold and daring. Lime green gowns and lace-clad dresses added a touch of friskiness to the mix. And while the color story kept the line in some sort of order, transitioning from warm neutrals to romantic purples to earthy hues and springtime pastels, it was the lack of real order that sustained the thrill.
Van Noten himself was quietly in attendance near the backstage entrance, seemingly pleased with where his nominative tag was headed. And with his approval, the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is sure to be a hit. Check out the gallery above for a glimpse of the collection, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
