“Who Decides War” Unveils Monumental 10th Collection at Hall Des Lumieres
On Saturday afternoon, the former Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank, now known as Hall Des Lumieres, was the place to be as Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore’s fashion label, “Who Decides War,” hit a major milestone. The New York City-based brand, founded in 2018, is renowned for its transformative denim and this weekend, they debuted their 10th collection for Spring/Summer 2025.
The show took place under grand columnar projections and was accompanied by a mix of music from artists like Ye, Alicia Keys, Stephanie Mills, and Jamiroquai, courtesy of Cash Cobain and student musicians from the Frank Sinatra School of the Arts. The event was a clever blend of experimental modernity and reliable classicism, all under one roof.
In their show notes, the designers explained their focus on utilizing fundamental 19th-century fabrics and humble textiles that have now become heritage Americana. These materials, including cotton, linen, terry, denim, leather, and lace, were deconstructed, recontextualized, ripped, shredded, restored, and made fantastical in Bravado and D’Amore’s bid to reinvigorate Queen Victoria’s bygone, polished fashion tropes through the lens of the Black Americana experience.
The one word used to describe the showcase was “opulence,” which perfectly captures the line’s maximalist interpretations of the aforementioned textiles. Cotton shirts were cut with hourglass shapes to expose the torso on men’s looks, while the same fabric was crinkled on dresses to create a mirage of wetness. Leather belts were transformed into gowns, denim was coated with shine and layered in the brand’s signature style, and delicate durag veils and sheer linen tastefully left the skin underneath on display.
The collection also featured collaborations with Pelle Pelle and Jordan Brand, with intricate patterns and logos adorning bomber jackets and footwear. Model Alton Mason, who opened the show in thick, cream knitwear, joined Bravado and D’Amore for a final lap around the runway before VIPs and press rushed backstage for an up-close look at the collection.
Among the guests, Lola Brooks told Hypebeast that she had her eye on the harmonic belt dresses, while Cleotrapa was drawn to the brand’s red gowns and matrimonial veils. In her words, “Who Decides War never, ever, ever disappoints.”
Take a look at the Spring/Summer 2025 collection from Who Decides War in the gallery above, and check out behind-the-scenes photos from photographer Sarah Schecker below.
