closer look
Glenn Martens Takes the Reins at Maison Margiela with a Golden Debut
When it comes to taking over the legacy of a pioneering designer like Martin Margiela, one may wonder how to even begin. And after John Galliano’s triumphant finale for the Fall 2024 couture collection, the pressure is on. But leave it to Glenn Martens to show us the way.
It’s no secret that Martens has a knack for fashion takeovers. With his Midas touch, the Belgian designer has a talent for infusing established brands with a modern edge. Just look at his successful helming of Diesel, where he stayed true to the Italian denim label’s identity while keeping up with the latest trends. And now, with his debut for Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall 2025, Martens has once again proven his ability to honor a brand’s heritage while bringing his own unique vision to the table.
On July 9, Martens took his audience back to the iconic Parisian cultural space Le Centquatre, where Martin Margiela presented his final collection in 2009. The setting was reminiscent of Margiela’s show, with fragmented tiling covering the floors and haphazardly pasted posters adorning the walls. But Martens wasted no time in making his mark, opening the show with translucent armor gowns, coats, and signature masks that paid homage to Margiela’s legacy.
But the show took a sharp turn as Martens introduced all-consuming metallic gowns that transformed the models into molten ores, gliding down the runway with an eerie grace. The influence of Galliano was also evident, with extreme corsetry and regal floral patterns that exuded an antiquarian charm. Martens skillfully translated these elements into Margiela’s language of deconstruction, creating patchworked trench coats, long skirts, and bodycon dresses.
As the show progressed, a decaying quality began to emerge. A jewel-adorned polo shirt looked as if it had been unearthed, while light-wash jeans resembled the “oldest pair of jeans” found in an abandoned mining shaft. Even seemingly delicate fabrics appeared burnt and tattered, adding to the overall sense of decay and destruction.
But Martens made sure to end on a hopeful note, reminding us that renewal is always possible. A look featuring a men’s blazer and skirt was adorned with emerald jewels and paired with a chrome mask, while a long-sleeve dress was covered in the spoils of a golden treasure chest. Elsewhere, a full tulle number evoked floral blooms, complete with a bouquet-like headpiece, and translucent plastic made a comeback in a vibrant technicolor coat.
The show closed with a burst of energy, as a lime green look with a ruffled bodice and flowing skirt symbolized growth and rejuvenation. With this debut, Martens has ushered in a new chapter for Maison Margiela, one that is sure to be filled with his unique vision and innovative designs. Take a closer look at the collection in the gallery above.
