The Bold and Beautiful: HELIOT EMIL’s SS25 Presentation in Paris
The invitation to HELIOT EMIL’s highly anticipated SS25 presentation in Paris was unlike any other. A mysterious amorphous stone, affixed to a metal tab engraved with the words “Cultural Construct Artificial Landscape,” served as the ticket to the event. The name alone evokes a sense of thought-provoking contrasts: humanity vs. artificiality, construct vs. landscape. And these contradictions were further explored in a special centerpiece created by Encor Studio.
The centerpiece, a strobing electrochromic glass sculpture, was described by HELIOT EMIL as a representation of the “tension between what is natural and what is artificial” – a tension that is felt in many aspects of our world today, from generative AI to climate change. The brand drew inspiration from Iceland’s contrasting geological features of fire and ice, using them to interact with this theme.
Creative director Julius Juul shared on Instagram, “I took inspiration from Iceland’s breathtaking landscapes. There’s something almost otherworldly about it – the volcanic beaches, the black on black mountains, the way the sand dunes form these organic, flowing shapes.” This inspiration is evident in the collection, with a certain minimalism and simplicity that mirrors the freshly birthed volcanic landscapes of Iceland.
The SS25 collection features a dominant black-on-black color scheme, with dimension added through curvy lines and draped panels reminiscent of the smooth folds of black lava fields. Even hardware and accessories received the geological treatment, with a molten chrome ore draped over one model’s shoulder and undulating carabiners appearing throughout the collection.
The collection also incorporates unique materials, such as a terry-like fabric with winding grooves used for hoodies, and an extremely loose-knit yarn for summer sweaters and skull caps. Puffer jackets are optimized for warm weather conditions with visible openings within a lattice of irregular quilting. And off-white windbreaker sets feature overlapping webs of opaque fabric and translucent windows, giving off a futuristic, biomimicry vibe.
The overall aesthetic of the collection is “otherworldly,” at times reminiscent of interplanetary sci-fi stories like Dune. Futuristic design details, such as cooling vents, multi-directional belts and zippers, and tunic-inspired styles, add to this otherworldly feel. But at its core, the collection also inspires a reverence for the natural world and envisions new relationships with unknown environments of the future.
HELIOT EMIL’s SS25 collection not only looks to the future, but also to the present, with a deep appreciation for the natural world. See the collection in the gallery above and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more coverage of Paris Fashion Week.
