Marie Lueder’s “ALBEDO” Collection Takes London Fashion Week by Storm
Marie Lueder’s eponymous label made its highly anticipated debut at London Fashion Week on Saturday morning, following a successful presentation in Berlin just two months prior. The brand, known for its signature theatrics, returned to its home turf with a bang, thanks to its inclusion in the British Fashion Council’s prestigious NEWGEN cohort.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled “ALBEDO,” was a major milestone for LUEDER, as it delved into medieval art forms and explored the concept of light and radiation. As the second stage of the brand’s Magnum Opus, designer Marie Lueder collaborated with French-British artist Thomas P. Grogan to experiment with alchemic reactions, resulting in unique prints and patterns.
The runway show was a spectacle to behold, with models strutting down the catwalk in a clumsy yet mesmerizing manner, transitioning into abstract dance moves to mark the start of the show. The collection featured 30 diverse looks, showcasing LUEDER’s expertise in cutting, dismantling, and reconstructing fabrics, from denim to leather, while maintaining a strong focus on eco-friendly practices.
The first look to hit the runway was a statement-making swirling denim ensemble, followed by deconstructed pinstriped shirting and knotted side bags, perfect for any adventure. The collection also featured fantasy-inspired pieces, with models donning fire-breathing underpinnings, leather hoods, and distressed sweatpants for a prehistoric look.
One of the standout pieces was a coiled abstract bomber jacket with a blooming neckline, showcasing LUEDER’s mastery in creating unique silhouettes. The brand also incorporated asymmetrical leather uniforms and stained and gradient finishes, giving a nod to medieval armor.
For the first time, LUEDER introduced soft tailoring, presenting strong-shouldered silhouettes paired with calf-length skirts, inspired by historical fashion. Overall, the collection was a perfect blend of fantasy and history, with a modern twist.
Take a closer look at LUEDER’s SS25 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for more London Fashion Week coverage on Hypebeast.
