“Le Naufrage”: Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Take on Jean Paul Gaultier’s Couture is a Shipwreck of Sensuality and Sophistication
Ludovic de Saint Sernin has made his mark as the eighth and youngest guest designer to lead the esteemed atelier of Jean Paul Gaultier for a season. His collection, titled “Le Naufrage” (which translates to “Shipwreck” in French), draws inspiration from the dramatic music video for Mylène Farmer and Seal’s “Les Mots” and a boat-shaped headpiece from Gaultier’s 1997 runway. With a nod to the fanciful fashion storytelling of Gaultier, de Saint Sernin’s sartorial explorations take us on a journey of kinky sophistication and fierce otherworldliness.
This was de Saint Sernin’s first foray into couture, and the results were a perfect blend of classic and futuristic. Structured, feathered gowns with frilly, sheer underlayers coexisted with leathery, latex dresses that unfurled over the body with mermaid-like cadences. The designer’s muses embodied a range of characters, from lustful pirates to posh patricians and mysterious sirens. Each look told its own story, with mystical models donning delicately knit dresses and rope-clad gowns with illusory nude finishes. Meanwhile, regal ball invitees added a touch of drama with extreme menswear corseting, crystal-covered slim dresses, matrimonial lace creations, and sensual see-through sections.
De Saint Sernin also pays homage to Gaultier’s iconic designs, with nods to his divine Spring 2007 couture collection and the famous dress from the 2001 French comedy “Absolument Fabuleux.” The models’ slick, chaotic, wet hair adds to the whimsical, hedonistic, and ethereal atmosphere of the collection, evoking the feeling of being lost aboard a shipwreck.
But unlike a sinking fate, de Saint Sernin’s collection offers a fresh and expert twist on the vast Gaultier archive, promising a bright future for the young designer. Take a look at Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2025 collection in the gallery above.
