Rei Kawakubo’s Powerful Message at Paris Fashion Week: “To Hell with War”
At Paris Fashion Week, the avant-garde Japanese fashion designer Rei Kawakubo made a bold statement on the runway of COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS Fall/Winter 2025: “To hell with war.” Taking over the second floor of an industrial building in the 9th arrondissement, Kawakubo presented a militant collection that deconstructed traditional soldier’s uniforms through the experimental lens of CdG.
Breaking Down Military Symbols
In her collection notes, Kawakubo kept it short and sweet: “Breaking down army symbols such as uniform shapes, color, camouflage patterns, helmets.” The COMME des GARÇONS brigade marched down the runway in field jackets, sharp-shouldered officer’s coats, big-pocketed vests, and utilitarian trousers in classic military shades of green, grey, and brown.
Unique Identities
Despite the sense of uniformity, each ensemble had its own unique identity. One look featured shiny brass buttons on an army green coat, layered over a casual button-down shirt covered in plant prints in the same tone. In another, color-blocked paneling transformed a serious double-breasted jacket into a whimsical, kaleidoscopic statement piece. The only constant throughout the collection was the headwear. Military hats were adorned with decadent flowers, wrapped in silky coatings, or encased in stretchy textiles that covered the entire skull.
Empowered by Resilience
As the models marched in unison at the end of the show, Kawakubo’s orderly style manifesto exuded a sense of resilience. It was impossible not to draw connections to the world’s tumultuous headlines. Check out the gallery above to see COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more coverage of Paris Fashion Week.
