Closing Out Pitti Uomo 107 with a Bang: Setchu’s Fall/Winter 2025 Collection
On Thursday evening, the final day of Pitti Uomo 107, all eyes were on Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata as he made his runway debut at the prestigious Florence’s Biblioteca Nazionale. The elegant string arrangement that filled the air set the tone for Setchu’s studious Fall 2025 manifesto, leaving the audience in awe.
As always, Kuwata’s latest collection was heavily influenced by origami and the fusion of Eastern and Western styles, a signature of the Setchu brand. However, this season, the designer had a more specific starting point: a square. “Folded in half, first vertically and then horizontally, it generates another four squares of different shades, divided by three folds in the mountain and one fold in the valley,” he explained. To further emphasize this concept, each guest was given a square piece of paper folded in the exact sequence at their seat.
In true Setchu fashion, the square motif was translated into a variety of garments, including Saharan jackets and coats that could be shortened to the wearer’s preference, and button-up shirts and blazers with square side panels for a dramatic effect. The central textile of the collection was a gray and black tartan, seen in dressy overcoats, conservative gowns, and robes. A kimono-style polychrome silk jacquard paid homage to Kuwata’s Kyoto upbringing, while three origami-folded jackets were created in collaboration with Davies & Sons, the oldest tailor on Savile Row. The collection also featured black lace eveningwear inspired by erotic manga’s octopus imagery.
Kuwata summed up his collection as “playful functionality and thoughtful temporality merge into a vision of inventive reduction.” And indeed, the Setchu Fall/Winter 2025 collection showcased just that. Take a look at the gallery above to see the stunning pieces for yourself.
