Glenn Martens Debuts Gothic-Inspired Collection for Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week
Glenn Martens, the new creative director of Maison Margiela, has made his mark with his first ready-to-wear collection for the label. The collection, which was presented at Paris Fashion Week, combines a gothic aesthetic with modern elements like plastic finishes and sneakers. Martens has also incorporated design hallmarks from his couture debut, creating a unique and edgy collection.
Echoes of Martens’ Couture Debut Reverberate in Subdued, Spectral Form
Martens’ strong couture debut for Maison Margiela Artisanal in July is still being felt in his latest presentation. The show opened with gothic black leather coats and scoop-neck double-breasted vests, both worn without a shirt underneath. The dark theme is balanced with bursts of painted floral, white pull ties, and delicate lace, creating a hauntingly beautiful atmosphere.
Ghostly Garments and Dramatic Moments Take Center Stage
The collection features a range of garments with a ghostly quality, including knitted sweaters, gowns, and outerwear that are lightweight and translucent. One standout look features a sheer gown fitted over a strong blazer, giving the impression of a gray apparition floating down the runway. Another dramatic moment showcases a mock neck bodice in red plaster, paired with a sweet blue floral skirt and sleeves.
Traditional Silhouettes Get a Modern Twist
Martens’ collection also includes traditional silhouettes with a modern twist. Draped and engineered distortions in the tailoring add to the eerie effect, while peeling wallpaper treatments from his Artisanal line are resurrected as gown prints and on a decaying canvas jacket. The monastic sensibility of some looks is juxtaposed with fabric choices like light-wash denim and plastic finishes, while sneakers add a fresh and unexpected touch to many of the outfits.
Stay Tuned for More Fashion Industry Insights
For a closer look at the Maison Margiela ready-to-wear SS26 collection, check out the gallery above. And be sure to stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest fashion industry insights and updates.
